Wine Birds Art Deco

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What have wine, bird and art deco got in common?  You find them all in the Hawke's Bay.

Situated on the east coast of New Zealand, Hawke's Bay is 320 km from Wellington.  Some of the things the region is famous for are:

  • Vineyards that produce award-winning wine;
  • The concentration of Art Deco and Spanish Mission buildings make the region one of the most unique architectural centres in the world;
  • Cape Kidnappers - home to one of the largest most accessible mainland gannet colonies in the world.

(By the way, Hawke's Bay is where we had our first 4WD lessons a few years ago!)

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Best Paddock Cottage, Hastings

We stayed at two self-contained cottages on our trip.

The Best Paddock Cottage at the outskirt of Hastings overlooks the newly planted Best Paddock vineyard and is right next to the vineyards of Redmetal and Sileni Estates.  There're over ten wineries within the distance of ten minutes' drive.  Want some good food and wine?  All you have to do it just stroll across the paddock to the Sileni epicurean centre and cellar next door!

The Endsleigh Cottages, where we spent our second and third nights, are in Havelock North (10 minutes' drive from Hastings).  Havelock North is a very poetic and arty place.  The  Cottage has been restored (almost rebuilt!) to its original classic 1920s  Arts and Crafts-style construction.  It's furnished with antiques and has cute things like claw-foot bath and wooden cistern.  It even comes with an old gramophone that works!  It's very spacious both inside and outside.  We had our own petanque pitch, croquet sets.

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Private garden of the Best Paddock Cottage

 

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Endsleigh Cottages, Havelock North

The Cape Kidnappers Gannet Reserve, with over 5,000 pairs of birds, contains the largest and most accessible mainland gannet colony in the world.   After lived in New Zealand for all these years and having been to Hawke's Bay a number of times, we finally made it to the Reserve to see the gannets at the right time (albeit not the ideal time as the best time for viewing is between early November and late February).

The Gannet, a member of the Booby family, is related to the families of shags, pelicans, and frigate-birds. While they are ungainly on land,  they fly gracefully and dive from great heights into the sea to catch fish.

From early May to mid-July the gannetry is empty.  All one can see are rows of neatly-spaced nesting mounds.  Following the full moon in July, males which nested during the previous season return to their nesting sites and are later joined by their mates.  Chicks can be seen at all stages of development between late December to late February.  By mid-March, the number of gannets dwindles and by mid-April, the colony is almost deserted as the chicks fly north across the Tasman Sea to the eastern coasts of Australia where they remain for 2.5 to 3.5 years until they become adults.  They then return to New Zealand and remain in New Zealand waters thereafter.

Rather than opting for a commercial tour by tractor or quadbikes along the beach, or by four wheel-drive overland, we decided to take the healthy option of walking along the 8km beach and a steep walk up to the Pleateau Colony.  This means we had to get the times of the tide right and complete the tour within six hours to avoid being stranded!  The 5-hour walk was absolutely rewarding and worthwhile.

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On our way to the Cape

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A courting pair

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A rare shot

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Gannets nesting at the Plateau Colony

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The Cape Kidnappers Headland

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At the plateau with the Saddle Colony in background

 

Photographs in this site are the properties of Henry and Edith Chan ©2003.  They are not to be copied or reproduced without our permission.

Please contact us if you would like to use any of the photos.  Site created and maintained by Edith Chan.